The Bank On Yourself Revolution: Fire Your Banker, Bypass Wall Street, and...

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MachineGhost
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The Bank On Yourself Revolution: Fire Your Banker, Bypass Wall Street, and...

Post by MachineGhost »

MachineGhost wrote: Well, there's always whole life insurance with a PUA rider from a mutual insurance company aka the Infinite Banking Concept. ;)  You heard it here first, folks!  The Next Big Financial Fad.  But seriously, it actually had a heyday back in the high tax-high inflation 70's as a tax shelter until the IRS slapped on contribution limits (i.e. if you go past the limit, it becomes taxable).  But from what I gather, the limit is only per contract.  You can have as many insurance contracts as you desire.  As people are so desparate for yield nowaday, the hucksters are smelling blood like chum in the water.  It won't be long now before the seminars and infomercials start happening...
As I predicted, the fad is starting to snowball and gain traction.  In 2014, a modern-day book published by a New York Times best-selling author was published on the concept:

The Bank On Yourself Revolution: Fire Your Banker, Bypass Wall Street, and Take Control of Your Own Financial Future

http://www.amazon.com/Bank-Yourself-Rev ... 939529301/

Just be aware that you need at least 10 years of continual premium contributions to make the numbers work.  So if you're past 60, forgetaboutit for yourself.  But I do like how the author points out what a scam 401(k) are because the compounding of the fees and the compounding of the deferred taxes completely erode the "free money" of the employer matching.  What a racket!

This actually has me wondering what the breakeven point is for paying management fees for market timing.  At some point in future time, the compounded fees may eat up any reduced drawdown vs the market.  So fees eat up 30% to 40% of your wealth (when @ 1.5% to 2%) and deferred taxes chops off another 30%, so it's interesting to wonder if starting off with a higher capital base via market timing after bear markets still wins in the end vs buy and suffer.  Has anyone done a comparsion?
Last edited by MachineGhost on Tue Jan 06, 2015 1:32 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: The Bank On Yourself Revolution: Fire Your Banker, Bypass Wall Street, and...

Post by Pointedstick »

Perhaps I'm being dense, but could you provide some context? What is this exactly?
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Re: The Bank On Yourself Revolution: Fire Your Banker, Bypass Wall Street, and...

Post by moda0306 »

Isn't this essentially just a big argument for using a permanent life insurance policy, and given its liquidity via borrowing from your cash-value, you don't have to access the debt markets as much?

While I think some of the math works out pretty well, one can develop similar numbers by:

1) Saving a good chunk of their income,

2) Keeping a good chunk of that savings liquid or semi-liquid,

and 3) paying cash for cars, boats, etc.

But the plan uses permanent life insurance to do it, an idea that I have some very differing opinions on depending on how the policy is designed.

And does it "bypass Wall Street?"  Well your insurance company will be investing in the bond market (if you use whole life).  It's not like they sit on a pile of gold and oil drums.
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Re: The Bank On Yourself Revolution: Fire Your Banker, Bypass Wall Street, and...

Post by MachineGhost »

Here are the key takeaways:

It's whole life insurance from mutual insurance companies.  Mutual insurance companies are member-owned (i.e. you) and returns it business profits to its members in the form of dividends, so it will keep pace with inflation.  Sort of analogous to modern day credit unions, except profits are redirected into lower rates for lending instead of being returned to members.

No mutual insurance company has ever failed in over 160 years of existence.  Even the U.S. government can't make that claim since it defaulted in 1933.  I think only Switzerland could make a higher claim.

There must be specific riders added to the policies to turn it into a "bank", called Paid Up Additions.  This essentially accelerates the cash-build value so that your premiums go 70% towards the "bank" from the first month instead of paying commissions to the salesman, supporting claim payouts or whatever malarky goes on with traditional insurance.

Since commissions are dramatically reduced via the use of PUA riders, there's no greed incentive in general to push these policies on anyone.  Normally the commissions in traditional insurance goes 100% to the salesman the first year and slowly decreases over time each year.  This is why insurance gets a bad rap.

Since this is insurance, there are no taxes, either on loans from your "bank" or payouts.  But the IRS has an upper limit on how much you can put into one contract.  I think that's 70% as well.  The 30% residual is the traditional insurance payoff component.  But this "problem" can easily gotten around by just having more than one contract.

You can "borrow" from the cash-build up value at anytime without any forms or lengthy questions, just a simple phone call since it is your money.  The interest does not even have to be paid back as it will be paid off automatically at your death.

Overall, this is a hybrid of the Tight Money and Prosperity component.  So I see it appropriate for a combined portion of both deep Cash and deep Equity.  The problem is, due to fees, you really need to do around $200 a month minimum and do it for 10 years straight to make the net numbers work.  That's not a problem really since its a forced savings plan that you can access at anytime without penalties or government restrictions compared to retirement plans.  In fact, the author claims the dropout rate is in the tenth of percents.  Well, no shit Sherlock, if you stop paying just one month or whatever the grace period is, you lose everything you've built-up.  Obviously, you can cash out at anytime as well.
Last edited by MachineGhost on Tue Jan 06, 2015 6:04 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: The Bank On Yourself Revolution: Fire Your Banker, Bypass Wall Street, and...

Post by D1984 »

MachineGhost wrote: Here are the key takeaways:

It's whole life insurance from mutual insurance companies.  Mutual insurance companies are member-owned (i.e. you) and returns it business profits to its members in the form of dividends, so it will keep pace with inflation.  Sort of analogous to modern day credit unions, except profits are redirected into lower rates for lending instead of being returned to members.

No mutual insurance company has ever failed in over 160 years of existence.  Even the U.S. government can't make that claim since it defaulted in 1933.  I think only Switzerland could make a higher claim.

There must be specific riders added to the policies to turn it into a "bank", called Paid Up Additions.  This essentially accelerates the cash-build value so that your premiums go 70% towards the "bank" from the first month instead of paying commissions to the salesman, supporting claim payouts or whatever malarky goes on with traditional insurance.

Since commissions are dramatically reduced via the use of PUA riders, there's no greed incentive in general to push these policies on anyone.  Normally the commissions in traditional insurance goes 100% to the salesman the first year and slowly decreases over time each year.  This is why insurance gets a bad rap.

Since this is insurance, there are no taxes, either on loans from your "bank" or payouts.  But the IRS has an upper limit on how much you can put into one contract.  I think that's 70% as well.  The 30% residual is the traditional insurance payoff component.  But this "problem" can easily gotten around by just having more than one contract.

You can "borrow" from the cash-build up value at anytime without any forms or lengthy questions, just a simple phone call since it is your money.  The interest does not even have to be paid back as it will be paid off automatically at your death.

Overall, this is a hybrid of the Tight Money and Prosperity component.  So I see it appropriate for a combined portion of both deep Cash and deep Equity.  The problem is, due to fees, you really need to do around $200 a month minimum and do it for 10 years straight to make the net numbers work.  That's not a problem really since its a forced savings plan that you can access at anytime without penalties or government restrictions compared to retirement plans.  In fact, the author claims the dropout rate is in the tenth of percents.  Well, no shit Sherlock, if you stop paying just one month or whatever the grace period is, you lose everything you've built-up.  Obviously, you can cash out at anytime as well.
MG,

I've never even heard of this "70% in one insurance contract" rule. Is that in Code Section 7702 or another part of the code dealing with life insurance? Are you sure you don't mean the 7-pay limit (i.e. can't put premium into a policy any faster than would be necessary to fully pay up the policy --i.e make it so no more premiums were ever required for a given face value to stay in effect--in anything less than 7 years or else it will create a MEC)? The reason I ask is that I have seen contracts (and these weren't MECs, either...they went right up to the MEC limit but didn't cross it) with close to 90% of the total premium going into the PUA rider. Granted, these all utilized term riders as well in order to stuff more money into the paid up additions and less into the base face, but I've seen non-MEC policies that used the abovementioned base/term/PUA blend from MassMutual, Penn Mutual, NWML, and MTL that all had anywhere from 76% to almost 90% of the total premium going into the PUA rider and the rest going into the term rider and base policy.

The only other thing I could think of when you talk about a "70% limit" is how much death benefit  (vs cash value) there has to be for it to qualify as a life insurance policy and not a MEC or a pure endowment, but that is getting into corridor testing and DEFRA and CVAT and GPT (WL uses CVAT testing ; UL can use either CVAT or GPT) but doesn't really have to do with PUAs per se.

Oh, and why would anyone pay one of these monthly? Monthly modal premiums will almost always end up being higher than paying the whole thing up front each year (i.e. a policy might cost $10,000 per year if paid on the policy anniversary date all at once but would end up costing maybe $916 per month if paid monthly).

Also, if these things are set up right, you should have use of significant cash value in three to five years (sometimes with up to 85 or 90% of the cash value available in year 1 as soon as the first premium is paid) rather than having to wait ten years or so.

Finally, these policies (again, if the agent knows what he/she is doing) will NOT lapse if you stop paying most of the premium for one month or even several years. A properly structured policy will have a total premium of (for example) $20,000 total that consists of maybe maybe a $1,000 per year term rider, perhaps $1,000 or $1,500 per year in base premium, and the rest in PUAs. Once the first year is paid, the only thing that HAS to be paid to keep it from immediately lapsing is the term rider cost of $1,000 or so plus whatever the base policy costs (to be fair, on most policies you also do have to pay a minimum PUA amount in order to keep that rider in force but that's usually $100 to $300 a year or in some cases every two or three years...and even if the PUA rider does lapse, the base policy and term riders stay intact and the already paid in PUAs are still there). You can even (in the worst case scenario...say someone bought one of these policies then lost their job a month later) have the policy go into APL mode and borrow from the PUA CV (again, if set up right these things will have 75% to 92% of the first years total premium as CV) and that will pay the minimum premiums (the term and base and the minimum needed to keep the PUA rider in effect) for a year or two or three....eventually it will lapse due to interest on the loan but hopefully the person would be back on their feet after a year or two. While IMHO someone should not even think of buying on of these if they can't afford the minimum worst case premium (term plus base plus minimum PUA) to carry the policy for a year or two if something bad happens to them financially, even if they did lapse it they would still have from 75% to 92% of what they paid in.

DISCLAIMER: I am not an insurance agent, actuary, rate maker, accountant, or tax attorney but I did see those contracts and if you need proof I can post at least one specimen contract--the MTL one...it was one I looked at a few years back...all the others belong to another member on this board and I would have to get their permission before posting them.
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Re: The Bank On Yourself Revolution: Fire Your Banker, Bypass Wall Street, and...

Post by MachineGhost »

D1984 wrote: I've never even heard of this "70% in one insurance contract" rule. Is that in Code Section 7702 or another part of the code dealing with life insurance? Are you sure you don't mean the 7-pay limit (i.e. can't put premium into a policy any faster than would be necessary to fully pay up the policy --i.e make it so no more premiums were ever required for a given face value to stay in effect--in anything less than 7 years or else it will create a MEC)? The reason I ask is that I have seen contracts (and these weren't MECs, either...they went right up to the MEC limit but didn't cross it) with close to 90% of the total premium going into the PUA rider. Granted, these all utilized term riders as well in order to stuff more money into the paid up additions and less into the base face, but I've seen non-MEC policies that used the abovementioned base/term/PUA blend from MassMutual, Penn Mutual, NWML, and MTL that all had anywhere from 76% to almost 90% of the total premium going into the PUA rider and the rest going into the term rider and base policy.
Whatever the limit is before it turns into a MEC (Modified Endowment Contract) and you lose the tax-free insurance benefits.

As far as monthly, I was viewing it in terms of monthly PP contributions.  But like regular insurance, twice or once a year is probably more prudent.

I didn't mean to infer you had to wait 10-years before you could tap the cash; rather break-even after all expenses is reached at that point.  Lets face it, even with the dramatically reduced commissions via the riders compared to traditional insurance, you're still paying relatively higher fees that would make any Boglehead-groupie soil his drawers.  You're still dealing with the relatively rare, but properly informed insurance agent that understands all of this esoteric stuff and they still need to be paid.  In fact, I daresay you're going to have an extended lifelong relationship with such an agent.
Last edited by MachineGhost on Wed Jan 07, 2015 12:30 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: The Bank On Yourself Revolution: Fire Your Banker, Bypass Wall Street, and...

Post by dragoncar »

Can someone explain like I'm five?  I understand that you take out an insurance policy and add paid up riders but I don't understand what the benefits are over simpler investments.  I have no need for life insurance (no dependents) If that matters
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Re: The Bank On Yourself Revolution: Fire Your Banker, Bypass Wall Street, and...

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dragoncar wrote: Can someone explain like I'm five?  I understand that you take out an insurance policy and add paid up riders but I don't understand what the benefits are over simpler investments.  I have no need for life insurance (no dependents) If that matters
Even if one has no need for insurance due to no dependents (a situation I am in as well) some of the potential benefits are:

1. You get an average interest rate that pays maybe one and a half or two percentage points more than what ten year bonds pay but you get it with no duration risk (since cash values never go down once credited unless withdrawn or used to pay loan interest). The dividend rates on most policies are between 4.50% and 6% nowadays and while there are mortality costs that offset this (and also the fact that the dividend interest on a policy is calculated on the basis of an amount called the "terminal reserve" which is actually slightly smaller than the CV itself) it still beats a bank account by a mile. Back in 1999-2000 when rates were higher some policies were paying a dividend interest rate of between 7.50% and 8.50%.

2. Since the interest and cash value buildup on a non-MEC (non Modified Endowment Contract...in other words...on a policy that is not so overfunded it is seen by the IRS as more of an investment than a life insurance contract and is taxed accordingly) policy is not taxed, you get tax deferred growth with (if done right) tax free withdrawals (or withdrawals up to basis and then wash loans or near wash loans) with none of the income or contribution limits of a  Roth. Oh, and not only are the withdrawals state and Federal income tax-free, they also don't count as income for the purposes of determining PPACA subsidies or determining if your Social Security should be taxed or not.

3. The ability to borrow against almost all the cash value no questions asked (you can only do that for a 401K loan with heavy restrictions i.e. no more than $50K or less than half of your contributions, whichever is less...and even then you can only take a loan if your plan allows it...and the loan has to be fully amortized and paid back over five years in most  cases besides for the purchase of a primary residence; IRAs are even more restrictive than 401Ks in this regard as you cannot borrow from them at all) and pay back as either principal plus interest (on whichever amortization schedule you choose...five years, ten years, twenty years etc), interest only, or even let the interest keep growing (so long as the CV in the policy is larger enough than the loan amount the CV will grow faster than the total loan amount even once interest on the loan is capitalized and added on to the original amount).

4. If you borrow against an asset like a stock or bond (say you take a margin loan to buy a car or house) and said stock/bond is paying, say, a 4% dividend or interest, and pay 4% on the margin loan, you are on a pretax basis neither richer nor poorer for it (since you paid 4% on the loan but earned 4% on the asset--this is ignoring any gain or loss on the asset itself which would happen whether they loan was there or not) BUT the IRS doesn't see it that way. They proceed to tax you on the interest/dividend you earned and don't let you (with limited exceptions...like if the loan was taken to acquire other income-producing investments) deduct the interest you paid even though the interest you paid was the opportunity cost for not having to sell said asset in order to have use of the money. With a cash value life insurance policy this is a moot point since while you (generally) can't deduct interest paid on a policy loan, the corresponding CV growth isn't taxed either.

Hope that helps.
Last edited by D1984 on Wed Jan 07, 2015 9:37 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: The Bank On Yourself Revolution: Fire Your Banker, Bypass Wall Street, and...

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D1984 wrote: Hope that helps.
Excellent summary!  Now how about you summarize the negatives? 

I think the concept is a good approach for those that have maxed out their government-approved retirement plans or are not eligible to contribute to such.  I see it as the Bonnie (tax-free cash) to the Clyde (discounted variable annuites which offer tax-deferred equity exposure).  But at the end of the day, both are a financial-engineering tax avoidance scheme.
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Re: The Bank On Yourself Revolution: Fire Your Banker, Bypass Wall Street, and...

Post by D1984 »

MangoMan wrote:
D1984 wrote:
dragoncar wrote: Can someone explain like I'm five?  I understand that you take out an insurance policy and add paid up riders but I don't understand what the benefits are over simpler investments.  I have no need for life insurance (no dependents) If that matters
4. If you borrow against an asset like a stock or bond (say you take a margin loan to buy a car or house) and said stock/bond is paying, say, a 4% dividend or interest, and pay 4% on the margin loan, you are on a pretax basis neither richer nor poorer for it (since you paid 4% on the loan but earned 4% on the asset--this is ignoring any gain or loss on the asset itself which would happen whether they loan was there or not) BUT the IRS doesn't see it that way. They proceed to tax you on the interest/dividend you earned and don't let you (with limited exceptions...like if the loan was taken to acquire other income-producing investments) deduct the interest you paid even though the interest you paid was the opportunity cost for not having to sell said asset in order to have use of the money. With a cash value life insurance policy this is a moot point since while you (generally) can't deduct interest paid on a policy loan, the corresponding CV growth isn't taxed either.

Hope that helps.
I don't think that is correct. I usually have a small amount of margin interest paid every year, and it is deductible in full on form 4952 as long as you have net investment income for the year that exceeds your margin interest.
I didn't say that was the ONLY time you could deduct the interest; I was just giving that as an an example of one case when it would be permissible. Yes, as long as you have investment income to deduct it against you can deduct generally margin interest....what I was trying to get at was that it wasn't deductible in general against ordinary earned income like, say, mortgage interest is.

Just curious BTW and not trying to hijack the thread...but how do you usually end up paying any margin interest? You aren't buying equities (or ETFs) on margin as long term buy and holds, are you (which could either work very well or be a disaster depending on how the equities/the market did as a whole)?
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