Re: i-Bonds How-to Q&A as of 2021 November
Posted: Wed Jan 26, 2022 9:24 am
Which I suppose is why you consider it a "deep bond". That makes sense.
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Which I suppose is why you consider it a "deep bond". That makes sense.
IBonds pay interest for the full month no matter when bought, so, buy later if can make money elsewhere earlier in the monthGT wrote: ↑Thu Mar 31, 2022 1:42 pm @JHogue - What is most efficient way to purchase IBonds?
My goal is 5K to 10K per year, but I am not sure of the best timing - all at once - every six months - purchase at the end of a month or wait and purchase at the beginning of the month. I see the TD website offers a direct payroll deduction option; any benefit to having a direct payroll deduction?
I was thinking of making a purchase every 6 months at the rate change. This would be deep cash, but I like the thought of being able to sell every six months after the first year.
You can still sell every six months after the first year even if you buy all 10K at the same time. For example, if you put 10K into I-Bonds today, you could sell 5K 12 months from now and another 5K 18 months from now. You already know that the for first three months, they earn no interest, right?
Thanks Dieter!Dieter wrote: ↑Fri Apr 01, 2022 1:31 amIBonds pay interest for the full month no matter when bought, so, buy later if can make money elsewhere earlier in the monthGT wrote: ↑Thu Mar 31, 2022 1:42 pm @JHogue - What is most efficient way to purchase IBonds?
My goal is 5K to 10K per year, but I am not sure of the best timing - all at once - every six months - purchase at the end of a month or wait and purchase at the beginning of the month. I see the TD website offers a direct payroll deduction option; any benefit to having a direct payroll deduction?
I was thinking of making a purchase every 6 months at the rate change. This would be deep cash, but I like the thought of being able to sell every six months after the first year.
I like splitting yearly purchases, although nowadays holding on to cash don’t pay.
But, if don’t want to lock up too much all at once, split
-@ GT:GT wrote: ↑Thu Mar 31, 2022 1:42 pm @JHogue - What is most efficient way to purchase IBonds?
My goal is 5K to 10K per year, but I am not sure of the best timing - all at once - every six months - purchase at the end of a month or wait and purchase at the beginning of the month. I see the TD website offers a direct payroll deduction option; any benefit to having a direct payroll deduction?
I was thinking of making a purchase every 6 months at the rate change. This would be deep cash, but I like the thought of being able to sell every six months after the first year.
Thank you barrett - Thank you Jhoue - Great info - I am going to give it a try !jhogue wrote: ↑Fri Apr 01, 2022 4:46 pm-@ GT:GT wrote: ↑Thu Mar 31, 2022 1:42 pm @JHogue - What is most efficient way to purchase IBonds?
My goal is 5K to 10K per year, but I am not sure of the best timing - all at once - every six months - purchase at the end of a month or wait and purchase at the beginning of the month. I see the TD website offers a direct payroll deduction option; any benefit to having a direct payroll deduction?
I was thinking of making a purchase every 6 months at the rate change. This would be deep cash, but I like the thought of being able to sell every six months after the first year.
The most efficient timing of I-bond purchases depends on your personal strategy for Cash. Your suggested strategy of making a purchase every 6 months at the time of the 1 May and 1 November interest rate re-sets will work out fine for you. Monthly or annual purchase plans would yield similar results.
More important than efficiency—at least for me- is the simple plan of increasing my pile of I-bonds as fast as I can. Why? There are several reasons:
1. In any given year, you are limited to $10,000 per SSN. If you don’t buy up the max amount, you permanently lose the opportunity to buy them in future years.
2. The sooner you buy your I-bonds, the sooner they will age past the 1 year and 5 year restrictions and penalties and become fully liquid. That is always a good thing, even if your intention is to hold them as “Deep Cash” to their full 30 year maturity.
3. You can successfully game the variable interest rate by watching the publication of the CPI-U index, but you can’t predict if Treasury will tack on a fixed interest rate. In sum, there is no reason to wait for a better rate than the present.
Consider the example of a smart couple who bought their yearly max of I-bonds at Treasury Direct plus their max from their IRS refund ten years ago:
After ten years of disciplined saving they now have:
2 x $10,000 + $5,000 = $25,000/ year x 10 years = $250,000 plus tax-deferred interest, compounded semi-annually.
Some posters on these boards complain that they can’t be bothered with I-bonds because the annual amounts “are too small.” They are looking through the wrong end of the financial telescope. Ten years from now your future self will thank you for that risk-free quarter million you saved and invested.
Well, that would certainly explain it! So, in that case, I-Bonds pay no interest for the first three months PLUS however many days prior to the end of the month they are purchased. (And, yes, I realize that this three months of interest "penalty" falls away after the bonds hit the five-year mark.)Kriegsspiel wrote: ↑Wed Apr 06, 2022 8:39 am I thought you get paid the interest for the month on the first day of the next month. So the interest you accumulated in August was paid on 1 September.
It's not clear to me how I-bonds are deep cash, given that they mature in 30 years. What am I missing?jhogue wrote: ↑Mon Nov 22, 2021 9:57 amIt’s not a big deal, but I try to emphasize that I-bonds and EE-bonds are not the same thing. I-bonds are for “Deep Cash.” EE-Bonds are for “Deep Bonds.” Think of opposite ends of the barbell.dualstow wrote: ↑Fri Nov 19, 2021 4:22 pmI struggled over that, JHogue. :-) You’re right. Even though i*Bonds are often used for deep cash and certainly not for what we know as the Bond portion of the pp, I figured “Bond” is right in the name, so it felt right to put it in the Bonds §.I edited a note into the top of the first post.
You mean as opposed to being deep bonds? A bond matures in 30 years and you have no option to cash out early (not including the coupon) other than selling it, and its value can gyrate wildly. The rate is locked for the life of the bond.stpeter wrote: ↑Tue Apr 19, 2022 7:18 pmIt's not clear to me how I-bonds are deep cash, given that they mature in 30 years. What am I missing?jhogue wrote: ↑Mon Nov 22, 2021 9:57 amIt’s not a big deal, but I try to emphasize that I-bonds and EE-bonds are not the same thing. I-bonds are for “Deep Cash.” EE-Bonds are for “Deep Bonds.” Think of opposite ends of the barbell.dualstow wrote: ↑Fri Nov 19, 2021 4:22 pmI struggled over that, JHogue. :-) You’re right. Even though i*Bonds are often used for deep cash and certainly not for what we know as the Bond portion of the pp, I figured “Bond” is right in the name, so it felt right to put it in the Bonds §.I edited a note into the top of the first post.
Ah, that makes sense. Thanks for the clarification!Xan wrote: ↑Tue Apr 19, 2022 7:24 pmYou mean as opposed to being deep bonds? A bond matures in 30 years and you have no option to cash out early (not including the coupon) other than selling it, and its value can gyrate wildly. The rate is locked for the life of the bond.
I-bonds are very different: you get a variable rate that resets every 6 months, so it reacts to short-term interest rates (and/or short-term inflation). You can cash out (with a couple of caveats) virtually any time you want and get your dollars back.
With a couple of the key caveats being:stpeter wrote: ↑Tue Apr 19, 2022 7:26 pmAh, that makes sense. Thanks for the clarification!Xan wrote: ↑Tue Apr 19, 2022 7:24 pmYou mean as opposed to being deep bonds? A bond matures in 30 years and you have no option to cash out early (not including the coupon) other than selling it, and its value can gyrate wildly. The rate is locked for the life of the bond.
I-bonds are very different: you get a variable rate that resets every 6 months, so it reacts to short-term interest rates (and/or short-term inflation). You can cash out (with a couple of caveats) virtually any time you want and get your dollars back.