Building house

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doodle
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Building house

Post by doodle » Thu Jan 16, 2014 11:46 pm

Going to be starting construction on a new home in a few months. Looking to build something in the prairie style out of some type of concrete. I'm in Florida so I need a structure that can withstand hurricane force winds.

I'm curious if anyone has undertaken new home construction and if they have any advice? Money saving tips, things they wish they had known before they started building, mistakes they made etc etc.

Thanks!
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Re: Building house

Post by Xan » Thu Jan 16, 2014 11:47 pm

Congrats, man!

I'm afraid I'll have to leave it to others for tips; I've never done anything like that.  But I HAVE seen the classic Cary Grant film "Mr Blandings Builds His Dream House".  You should too.
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Re: Building house

Post by Pointedstick » Thu Jan 16, 2014 11:49 pm

My advice:

- Insulated concrete forms (ICFs) covered in cementitious stucco
- Cathedral ceilings formed from steel SIPs held up with a steel ridge beam and topped with metal roof sheathing

You will have a fireproof, termite-proof, hurricane-proof fortress with greatly reduced cooling needs.

Budget 20% more than you think, both money and time. Or maybe 50%!
Last edited by Pointedstick on Fri Jan 17, 2014 12:02 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Building house

Post by I Shrugged » Fri Jan 17, 2014 11:55 am

Contractors usually don't ask you questions early enough.  They are busy and wait till the last minute to ask you all sorts of things.  Then you are running around to look at materials and make decisions.  If you have a spouse, these rushed decisions will be even more trying. Such as:

Where do you want outlets?
How high do you want your light switches off the floor?
Almond?  White?  Something else?
Where do you want the dining light fixture exactly?
Which rooms are tile, wood, carpet?  Have you picked out same?
Which cabinets, countertops and hardware do you want?
Elongated toilets, or round?  Any special seat and lid?
Satin nickel faucets, chrome, brass...?
Same for doorknobs.
Do you want deadbolts, on which doors?  Same key on all locks, or some different... which ones?

And on and on and on.  Look around your present house, and in each room, write down the decisions that had to be made by the first owner or his contractor.  It will be a big list.

Otherwise, spend an hour's worth of expense to talk to your lawyer about how and when to disburse payments.  You can easily get burned when your contractor or his sub doesn't pay a supplier, then you get slapped with a lien.  Don't think it won't happen to you because it happens ALL THE TIME.  It has happened to me, and it just happened to a neighbor.  Contractors are used to having to get you the proper documentation before getting paid, but they won't do it if you don't require it.
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Re: Building house

Post by doodle » Fri Jan 17, 2014 1:06 pm

Thanks for the info guys! Its been a big learning process so far and I haven't even broken ground.
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Re: Building house

Post by Pointedstick » Fri Jan 17, 2014 1:18 pm

Post pictures of the process! Sounds exciting.
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Re: Building house

Post by ns3 » Sat Jan 18, 2014 2:07 pm

My advice would be don't use the same contractor that Vinnie Testaverde used....

http://tbo.com/northwest-tampa/testaver ... -20131230/

But serves him right for all those interceptions he threw when he played for the Bucs
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Re: Building house

Post by moda0306 » Sat Jan 18, 2014 2:40 pm

Pointedstick wrote: My advice:

- Insulated concrete forms (ICFs) covered in cementitious stucco
- Cathedral ceilings formed from steel SIPs held up with a steel ridge beam and topped with metal roof sheathing

You will have a fireproof, termite-proof, hurricane-proof fortress with greatly reduced cooling needs.

Budget 20% more than you think, both money and time. Or maybe 50%!
Is there a thread started that goes into why you advocate such a non-traditional approach.

I ask because it seems awesome. I love the idea of a fortress.  I live in mn though :).
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Re: Building house

Post by Pointedstick » Sat Jan 18, 2014 3:03 pm

moda0306 wrote: Is there a thread started that goes into why you advocate such a non-traditional approach.

I ask because it seems awesome. I love the idea of a fortress.  I live in mn though :).
It's not really so non-traditional; it's more of a culmination of the past few decades' worth of generally accepted masonry building practices in a way that I think makes most sense if your goals include things like minimized maintenance, reduced heating and cooling loads, and greatly reduced or eliminated susceptibility to fire, flooding, and termites.

Concrete building has been catching on for all the obvious reasons, and it's already pretty well-accepted in places like Florida which has hurricanes. Building a house out of wood there is just stupid. Then again, building a house out of wood in the foothills of L.A. is stupid as well, but apparently there are a lot of stupid builders there.

Such a house would work in Minnesota with only a few minor tweaks. For your climate, I would advocate reducing the thickness of the concrete part of the wall and increasing the thickness of the insulation part, and also adding a bit of interior insulation too. Say, 6 inches exterior insulation (about R-27), 4 inches of concrete, and maybe half an inch of interior insulation (R-2.25) The interior insulation keeps the thermal mass of the walls from getting too cold, but the thick exterior insulation keeps the mass more affected by the interior temperature than the exterior temperature.

A radiant floor heating system would provide all the heating you'd need, with an optional supplemental wood stove being easily sufficient for deep freezes.

FYI I am not a builder, but I am really hoping to become one soon, which is why I've been trying my best to learn all this stuff.
Last edited by Pointedstick on Sat Jan 18, 2014 3:12 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Building house

Post by moda0306 » Sat Jan 18, 2014 3:30 pm

PS,

Quit it. You've got me dreaming now. I was content with my stick home in the burbs.  Now I want a fortress, defended by an AR-15, and with a 3d printer fabricating many household stuff I need.

You might turn me into a heartless, reclusive libertarian yet...
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Re: Building house

Post by Pointedstick » Sat Jan 18, 2014 3:51 pm

moda0306 wrote: PS,

Quit it. You've got me dreaming now. I was content with my stick home in the burbs.  Now I want a fortress, defended by an AR-15, and with a 3d printer fabricating many household stuff I need.

You might turn me into a heartless, reclusive libertarian yet...

Muahahahahahaha! Embrace the law of the jungle!

To get back to doodle…

Since Florida is a pretty consistently hot place without large seasonal or diurnal temperature shifts, you don't get as much benefit from thermal mass and keeping cool is important almost all the time, so you'll need to protect your thermal masses (walls and foundation slab) from heat originating both inside and outside, and you want the building envelope well-sealed to keep in your precious refrigerated air.

To do this, I would insulate both the interior and exterior of the mass walls with about 2 inches of insulation, which will also help your house cool down faster since the air won't have to spend so much time cooling down the mass walls. You'll also want wide roof overhangs to protect your windows and walls from the sun, and with a well-sealed masonry building envelope, you'll definitely need a mechanical ventilation system capable of circulating some air so you don't get stuck breathing in unhealthy stale AC air all day. Double-glazed windows will be nice, but low-e coatings on however many panes you have may well have a bigger impact in preventing solar irradiance from heating up the interior of the house.

In a maritime climate, make sure everything made of steel is stainless, including the SIPs for the roof structure. I would not trust zinc-galvanized steel in a wet and salty place.

There won't be anything in the structure of this house for termites to eat, but they can still dig tunnels in exterior insulation foam if they get confused. Make sure it's flashed properly.
Last edited by Pointedstick on Sat Jan 18, 2014 3:55 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Building house

Post by doodle » Sun Jan 19, 2014 1:35 am

PS,

Couple of questions....how does one attach roofing to an SIP? Also, how does one dress up the underside of one in a cathedral type ceiling?

As with most things in my life I believe in function over form, but I also need to conform to the architecture of the neighborhood and hopefully build a structure which will have some resale value. If none of that mattered I would probably just build a concrete dome. Ughhh...the tyranny of convention.

Anyways, on the topic of roofing, I'm leaning towards a flatish hip roof 3 or 4/12 slope instead of a steep gable one like you advocated. Although the gable roof would be better for a hot climate like Florida, especially if I could open some ventilation at the top to blow out the hot air, I think they are less resistant to high winds.

As far as insulation and having a sealed building, I am also a bit worried about moisture. I have heard that really tight buildings in damp climates can develop mold issues.

I'm thinking of going with precast or regular block construction and just using trees, largish eaves, and intelligent window placement to cut down on heat. I'm a big fan of passive solutions rather than sealing things up tight and air conditioning my space.....thoughts?
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Re: Building house

Post by doodle » Sun Jan 19, 2014 8:12 am

PS,

For plumbing, do you think a pex system with a manifold is the way to go?

Also, for heating water...gas or electric water heater....or does solar make economic sense?
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Re: Building house

Post by Pointedstick » Sun Jan 19, 2014 9:07 am

doodle wrote: PS,

Couple of questions....how does one attach roofing to an SIP? Also, how does one dress up the underside of one in a cathedral type ceiling?
They actually make steel SIPs that are topped with the roof surface itself, so it's a totally all-in-one product. Very cool stuff: http://www.kingspanpanels.us/products/c ... -seam-roof

If you wanted to get a steel SIP and then attach the roof surface to it, I'll admit I don't actually know the best way to do this in your climate. Might want to talk to a contractor, but don't let them talk you into wood SIPs. Totally inappropriate for the Florida climate IMHO.

As for the underside, you'd just drywall it like any other ceiling. The drywall screws will penetrate the metal and dig into the high-density foam. I would recommend using cementboard instead of drywall in the whole house because it's more moisture resistant and doesn't have any paper that can make a tempting target for termites.

doodle wrote: As with most things in my life I believe in function over form, but I also need to conform to the architecture of the neighborhood and hopefully build a structure which will have some resale value. If none of that mattered I would probably just build a concrete dome. Ughhh...the tyranny of convention.
I'm totally with you on this, but the kind of house we're discussing would actually have a very "conventional" appearance. Besides, I wouldn't actually recommend a dome for Florida because of the rain and moisture. Concrete is very porous, so you'd have to protect it with a roof anyway to get any serious longevity out of the structure, and once you're doing that, you might as well make it a square building and just blend in with the neighborhood.

doodle wrote: Anyways, on the topic of roofing, I'm leaning towards a flatish hip roof 3 or 4/12 slope instead of a steep gable one like you advocated. Although the gable roof would be better for a hot climate like Florida, especially if I could open some ventilation at the top to blow out the hot air, I think they are less resistant to high winds.
Low slope is a good idea. In terms of cost, I would recommend gable rather than hip, simply because it's simpler and there will be fewer roof surfaces (two rectangles vs two triangles and two parallelograms, assuming a rectangular house). The beauty of the all-in-one SIP and roof panel is that there's nothing for the wind to get under and pull the roof off. And since it would be a cathedral ceiling design, with the lower part of the roof making up the ceiling, there's no attic for wind to enter, so you completely eliminate the complicated topic of attic ventilation.

doodle wrote: As far as insulation and having a sealed building, I am also a bit worried about moisture. I have heard that really tight buildings in damp climates can develop mold issues.

I'm thinking of going with precast or regular block construction and just using trees, largish eaves, and intelligent window placement to cut down on heat. I'm a big fan of passive solutions rather than sealing things up tight and air conditioning my space.....thoughts?
"Sick building syndrome" in a well-sealed building will be a problem with any masonry construction simply because it's so naturally strong and tight compared to a stick-framed building, so even if you built a block wall with no exterior insulation, you'd still want to install a ventilation system or open the windows a lot.

And keep in mind that if you wind up having a lot of interior thermal mass (i.e. block of concrete walls without interior insulation), then once your house is at a temperature you like, you can open the windows for ventilation without it disturbing the interior temperature for many hours because the mass walls are absorbing any temperature differentials between the interior temperature and the temperature of the wind.

Using shading and site orientation is a very smart idea. Keep in mind that to more you use your roof to block the sun, the better your roof has to be about reflecting heat, which is why I recommend a metal roof surface with a ton of insulation.

But let's face the facts: you're in Florida. It's hot and humid year-round. Air conditioning is a pretty natural solution to both problems. You won't need to run it 24/7 if you design the building envelope and shading properly, but when you do run it, these good design decisions will maximize its benefit while reducing the amount of time it needs to run.

doodle wrote: For plumbing, do you think a pex system with a manifold is the way to go?

Also, for heating water...gas or electric water heater....or does solar make economic sense?
Yes a PEX manifold is a great solution. Keep in mind that PEX degrades in sunlight so it needs to hidden in the wall... then again this is true of PVC as well. You might even be able to do your own plumbing with PEX. See http://www.mrmoneymustache.com/2011/11/ ... -with-pex/

A solar water heater is a no-brainer if the insolation of the site supports it, IMHO. In your climate sunlight is waste since you don't really ever need to heat the house, so transforming some of that waste into a factor of production by using a solar water heater is a smart idea. Even if it's not able to heat the water entirely, it can be more of a solar "pre-heater" to take some of the load off the conventional heater. As for gas vs electric, it depends on local utility rates and insolation. Here in New Mexico, gas is $0.6 a therm--well below the national average, so it's a no-brainer for me. The economics may be different in Florida, especially considering that you can generate your own electricity on-site but not your own gas. In a place with abundant sun, and high electricity and gas rates, solar electrical generation can also be cost-effective.
Last edited by Pointedstick on Sun Jan 19, 2014 11:33 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Building house

Post by doodle » Sun Jan 26, 2014 11:21 am

Something is messed up...

How could I get this for under 3000 dollars in the 1920s.. http://www.searsarchives.com/homes/imag ... 12050a.jpg
Which adjusted for inflation would be the equivalent of about 50,000 dollars today?

Today the technology that we have to manufacture bricks, cut lumber, pour cement, drill holes, shoot nails etc. is so much more efficient and advanced yet the same house today would cost me probably 200,000 dollars today if I even could find craftsman able to build it.

Why has construction got more expensive and crappier despite huge advances in facilitating technology?
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Re: Building house

Post by Pointedstick » Sun Jan 26, 2014 11:52 am

doodle wrote: Something is messed up...

How could I get this for under 3000 dollars in the 1920s.. http://www.searsarchives.com/homes/imag ... 12050a.jpg
Which adjusted for inflation would be the equivalent of about 50,000 dollars today?

Today the technology that we have to manufacture bricks, cut lumber, pour cement, drill holes, shoot nails etc. is so much more efficient and advanced yet the same house today would cost me probably 200,000 dollars today if I even could find craftsman able to build it.

Why has construction got more expensive and crappier despite huge advances in facilitating technology?
First of all, that was a kit home and you were only paying for the materials and supplying your own labor, which would jack the price up if you hired any help. Notice they also didn't include the components for wiring, plumbing, heating, or cooling, and I believe you also needed to pour your own foundation too. None of that stuff is cheap. Finally, notice that the roof material they supplied was cedar shingles, which would crack, rot, and mold within a decade or two.

If you shelled out $50,000 for this kit today, were it available in its original form, you would find that you still needed to pay for the plumbing, wiring, heating and cooling appliances and associated infrastructure, and that you had a house without insulation, that needed a new roof in ten years, was a termite magnet firetrap (everything appears to be made out of wood) and had no resistance to hurricanes whatsoever. Don't fall for the "everything was better in the past!" trap!


That said, you have a point. Modern houses can be ridiculously expensive. And here are, in my opinion, the reasons (in no particular order):
- Larger average home size (increases the magnitude of everything else)
- FAR higher labor costs
- Required liability insurance, worker's comp, etc. for hired labor
- Larger, more sophisticated electrical wiring and plumbing systems with more receptacles and fixtures
- Larger and nicer kitchens
- More and nicer bathrooms
- Byzantine building codes (here, see for yourself: http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/icod/irc/2009/)
- Licenses and certifications and inspections required for everything
- Higher insulation and air sealing requirements and expectations due to vastly higher heating and cooling costs
- Old growth lumber is no longer available at reasonable prices for environmental reasons


Basically, houses were cheaper during a time when fuel was cheap, labor was cheap, labor protections were low, integrated systems were simpler, expectations of home size and luxury were lower, government oversight was vastly smaller (in many cases non-existent) and finally, a big part is the attempt to salvage a failing paradigm (stick-framed homes) with increasing complexity now that it's showing its age during a time when houses are required to be more energy efficient and disaster resistant. Modern stick-framed homes need to be bolted to the foundation, braced with hurricane ties, fireblocked, insulated in the stud bays, drywalled, treated to resist termites, sheathed with OSB, a foam insulation board, and a moisture barrier, covered with siding, etc… all this stuff adds up compared to a vastly simpler, stronger, and more efficient concrete wall that basically consists of exterior sheathing, insulation, and concrete and is naturally immune to fire, termites, and hurricanes and has far better energy performance. Like I've said, don't let anyone talk you into building a stick-framed house in Florida!

Labor is a big, big part as well. When I was volunteering for Habitat for Humanity, they would repeatedly stress how valuable our participation was because paid labor accounted for 2/3 of the price of an average home. The guys you see working on houses are probably making between $15 and $25 an hour; far more for the plumbers and electricians (side note: if you're a poor college grad with a ton of debt, become a plumber or electrician).

That said, IMHO it is perfectly possible to build a reasonable house for $50,000 today. You would just need to keep it to under 1,000 square feet and one bathroom, skip the garage, build the kitchen cabinets yourself out of plywood, skip the granite, the garbage disposal, and the dishwasher, don't insulate the walls or attic, use cheap vinyl siding and single-paned windows, etc. You would have a house that largely mimics something built in 1920. Would you actually want to live in that house? That's another question…
Last edited by Pointedstick on Sun Jan 26, 2014 4:09 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Building house

Post by dualstow » Sun Jan 26, 2014 1:18 pm

Pointedstick wrote:
That said, IMHO it is perfectly possible to build a reasonable house for $50,000 today. You would just need to keep it to under 1,000 square feet and one bathroom, skip the garage, build the kitchen cabinets yourself out of plywood, skip the granite, the garbage disposal, and the dishwasher, don't insulate the walls or attic, use cheap vinyl siding and single-paned windows, etc. You would have a house that largely mimics something built in 1920. Would you actually want to live in that house? That's another question…
I don't know that I would be happy in this house, but I love it. I love the idea of it, and I love the sheds.
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Re: Building house

Post by clacy » Sun Jan 26, 2014 1:35 pm

As PS already pointed out, it ALWAYS costs more than you think.  Contractors will never quote updgrades or keep extra margin for unforeseen issues, and there are typically a few problems that occur which cause you to spend more money.
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Re: Building house

Post by FarmerD » Sun Jan 26, 2014 5:26 pm

The most overlooked part of your home is the concrete foundation, sidewalk/steps, driveway, etc.  Many contractors just slap down some concrete haphazardly.  If they do, in a couple years you will begin to see ugly cracks popping up everywhere.  To prevent this, follow a few simple steps.

1. Ensure subgrade is properly prepared.  A lot of contractors just level the dirt a little then slap down the concrete mix on the dirt.  Make sure the subgrade area is level and has a nice thick layer of wet gravel. 
2. Ensure the right amounts of cement, sand, and aggregate is used.  Contractors love to skimp on the expensive cement and use more water and sand than they should. 

3.  Use the proper thickness of concrete.  Using less concrete will mean a foundation that isn’t as strong.

3. Ensure the concrete is properly jointed.  Concrete needs to jointed in squares.  If you don’t joint it this way, the concrete will crack in such a way so that it is jointed into squares. 

4. Cure the concrete.  Curing means to keep the concrete moist so the chemical reaction in the concrete is allowed to continue until finished.  I’ve tested properly cured concrete and compared to uncured concrete, it will have 2-3 times the strength.  Most people will immediately cover the concrete with plastic sheeting for up to three weeks (hence the name “21 day Portland Cement”? ) although 10-14 days is usually sufficient.  During this time you may need to sprinkle water on the concrete otherwise the chemical reaction in the cement may cease.

http://www.concretenetwork.com/concrete ... asics.html
http://www.concreteconstruction.net/sit ... -prep.aspx
http://www.concretenetwork.com/concrete ... te_mix.htm

Since most people don’t know anything about concrete, contractors will often cut corners.  My brother hired a contractor to pour the foundation for 2 pole sheds.  The contractor skimped badly on the cement, and didn’t cure the concrete.  We bored 2 test holes in the sheds after they were done and took the samples to a testing laboratory where they performed compression tests.  The tests showed the concrete has a compression strength of 12,000 psi compared to the 30,000 PSI standard for Agricultural Buildings.  We showed the results to the contractor and told him to tear it up and start over or we’d sue.  He tore it up and did it right without a word. 
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Re: Building house

Post by doodle » Wed Feb 26, 2014 8:36 pm

So I took the first steps last week to clear the land. Had a massive 80 foot tall oak tree removed from the property. Good riddance! Not only are they nasty trees that drop leaves, acorns, and pollen everywhere, but sleeping with that hulking giant above my head knowing that a wind storm could bring it down on top of me meant it had to go. It wasn't cheap either....2300 dollars to get that sucker cut down and hauled away. I initially thought about doing it myself but eventually decided to bring in the professionals. It took 7 guys with chainsaws, chippers, stump grinders, bobcats, and a dump truck the better part of whole day to take it down. Had i gone at the project alone it probably would have taken me a decade. As impressive as the spectacle of watching the thing come down was, it was also my first lesson in the bottomless money pit that homeownership can be and it has taken me back to the drawing board in terms of home designs again. So, I'm coming back here for advice and input.

Here is my situation:

I am a minimalist. I have no desire to have a family. I have little desire to spend my time and money maintaining and paying taxes and insurance on a giant structure as well as the considerable loan interest. I currently live in a condo (which I own) however I would like to have some space to start growing my own food and a small garage to work on projects....so a house seemed like the natural solution.

Up to now I have been looking at traditional 3/2 floor plans in the 1200 to 1500 square foot range. Although I don't need or desire that much space to maintain, I have had resale value in the back on my head. A number of real estate professionals have told me that I need at least 2 bedrooms and 2 baths and over 1200 square feet to ever be able to sell it again. I am afraid to build a structure that has no market value.

On the other hand, I read articles like this and I can immediately identify with this couples philosophy. http://www.nytimes.com/2014/01/23/garde ... .html?_r=0

Ideally, if i take the concern of resale off the table (and I intend to live in this house for awhile...more that 7-10 years...if not forever) I would just build an open concept 1/1 in the 700 to 800 square foot range and put up a 300-400 square foot garage in the back. This would allow me to have plenty of space for gardening on the land, allow me to cool using solar, lower my taxes, insurance, and maintenance costs and keep away pesky long term house guests :-)

BUT!! Am I throwing good money at a bad investment by creating a house tailored for my needs without thinking about resale? How would you guys approach this problem? What would you do? Do you think that a house this size is truly unmarketable or is this simply a market segment that is so underrepresented that it is hard for realtors to evaluate?
Last edited by doodle on Wed Feb 26, 2014 8:38 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Building house

Post by doodle » Wed Feb 26, 2014 10:09 pm

Thinking about it some more and working again on sketches I think the best solution will be to build the 1/1 that I want right now with a very logical point of connection for the addition of a second bedroom and bath. Maybe the day will come when I need it, maybe it won't. No sense in building it today for an unknown future
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Re: Building house

Post by Pointedstick » Wed Feb 26, 2014 11:16 pm

It's a pickle, for sure. Knowing the local market is crucial. For example, here in New Mexico, you could build your dream house, call it a "casita" and it would sell in a week, especially if you incorporated a lot of thermal mass into the walls, put vigas on the ceilings and called it adobe. People would go nuts over it. Small houses like the one you want are common and desired …but not in suburbia. You'd have to build it in the city on a smaller lot than you might be comfortable with. There are always trade-offs. I see Craigslist ads for people selling beautiful houses a bit like the one you want to build for like $40k because it takes two hours to get there out in the boonies and you need a lifted truck to brave the unpaved roads.

You should probably listen to the pros regarding what sells in your local market, but remember that it's local, and conditions may be different elsewhere, even close by. I just bought and am living in a 3/2 1,100 square foot ranch house and I beat out a number of hungry investors who salivated over the property. Around here, you can definitely sell a house under 1,200 square feet.

"Bottomless money pit" is right, though. The bills I've faced in the last month are staggering. $5k for a new septic system, $2k for re-done gas plumbing, $2k for new engineered hardwood floors (materials alone, DIY project), the list goes on and on. I'm dreading the estimate for a new roof. Do yourself and future buyers a favor and put on a metal roof, either metal shingles or standing seam. Avoid exposed fastener R-panel types, since they won't last as long and will eventually leak.


How's this for an idea: since you're still in the design phase, design the house in such a way that you can live in it the way you want to and reconfigure it for resale later relatively cheaply. You need a bedroom and a bathroom, duh. So create interior spaces that could easily accommodate additional bedrooms and bathrooms. Make the bathroom a primary public one, and add plumbing stub-outs in a framed wall of your bedroom to easily add a master bathroom. Include a workshop type room that could easily be converted into a second bedroom. Build the garage in such a way that it could easily become a third bedroom, and design the floorplan to easily accommodate a logically-located carport or detached garage.

I would personally avoid planning for future additions. Additions are ridiculously expensive because you need to expand and logically tie into the existing foundation and roof, and these are not inexpensive tasks. Same with walls, siding, plumbing and electrical, not to mention HVAC. My parents built an addition when I was a kid and it made more financial sense to include A SECOND FURNACE than tie into the existing HVAC system. What a mess!
Last edited by Pointedstick on Thu Feb 27, 2014 2:42 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Building house

Post by Pointedstick » Thu Feb 27, 2014 2:48 pm

Another thing to think about is that two bedrooms is incredibly easy to design for. If you have a house that's a rectangle, for example, just put an interior wall between the two long outside walls to divide the house into a square and a smaller rectangle, then divide the smaller rectangle in half with another wall. Tada! Now you have two bedrooms that open into the open-concept living/kitchen area without needing a space-wasting hallway. After you go beyond two bedrooms, it gets harder to avoid having hallways or lofts. My 3-bedroom house has a 76 wasted feet of hallway. Design to avoid that!
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Re: Building house

Post by doodle » Sun Mar 30, 2014 11:16 am

After clearing the plot, I've gone in circles about what kind of structure to build. Initially I was leaning towards a rectangular hip roof bungalow in the 1400-1500 square foot range to be built in a traditional arrangement with a general contractor, but my personal philosophy of frugality, minimalism, and self reliance kept butting heads with such a mainstream approach. That being the case, I have dialed things down in size and been looking at simpler styles of building that I would be able to accomplish on my own. One particular style that has potential I think for the novice owner builder are these Texas Hill Country Cabins. Nice wide porch for Florida summers, energy efficient metal roof, simple gable roof structure and rectangular layout. I'm thinking of something in this style now in the 900 square foot range 1 bed 1 bath with loft and designing for potential of future bedroom and bath addition. I am about one mile outside of downtown area of city so there is market for smaller structures. http://www.houzz.com/photos/1942608/Hil ... or-houston

Here is another beauty http://www.houzz.com/photos/2497799/Fre ... use-porch-

The limestone veneer certainly adds a lot to the design, but I'm thinking an earthy colored smooth stucco with stone accents might provide a similar effect on a smaller budget.

Another large chunk of my time over the last month has been dedicated to researching building materials and techniques. There are so many options to choose from its incredible. Being in South Florida, pest and wind resistance are at the top of my list when evaluating any material. Initially I was leaning towards standard CMU...however, I would need to get some practice laying mortar joints before I felt comfortable building a house using them. I was a bit wary of ICF with the pest/insect invasion issue as well as potential moisture and mold problems. Currently, I'm kind of attracted to these: http://www.apexblock.com/...strong, easy dry stack construction, good R value, pest/fire resistant.

As for roof, I'm strongly leaning towards metal. I like the look of clay tile roofs but the cost, weight, and energy efficiency can't compare. On a simple gable roof a metal roof should also be a snap to install especially with all the panels cut to length.

As far as the roof structure I'm still debating this...trusses would seem to be the easiest route....I need about a 26 foot span on my design and a truss would allow me to forgo having to worry about internal load bearing walls. That being said, they also eliminate the possibility for a sleeping loft so I have been looking at some post and beam options with rafters. Not sure yet on this....

Anyways, in addition to all this I have been doing a lot of volunteering at habitat for humanity and picking the site foremans brains out there as well as learning the practical side of putting up a structure. It's been a lot of fun and it's great to work outdoors with ones hands. This whole process really has me contemplating a future career change into a building trade potentially.

I am playing around with some architectural CAD programs online right now and as soon as I get closer to a final design I will post again. Any advice or suggestions are always welcome of course.
Last edited by doodle on Sun Mar 30, 2014 11:40 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Building house

Post by doodle » Sun Mar 30, 2014 11:28 am

Another thing to think about is that two bedrooms is incredibly easy to design for. If you have a house that's a rectangle, for example, just put an interior wall between the two long outside walls to divide the house into a square and a smaller rectangle, then divide the smaller rectangle in half with another wall. Tada! Now you have two bedrooms that open into the open-concept living/kitchen area without needing a space-wasting hallway. After you go beyond two bedrooms, it gets harder to avoid having hallways or lofts. My 3-bedroom house has a 76 wasted feet of hallway. Design to avoid that!
This is kind of what I have done but where would the bathroom go in such a design? It would have to be incorporated into one of the bedrooms....anytime a guest wanted to use the loo they would have to enter through a bedroom, right?
All of humanity's problems stem from man's inability to sit quietly in a room alone. - Blaise Pascal
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